Amy

This morning I woke up early to see the first (not midnight) show of New Moon (Twilight Series). The previews offered high hopes and from the book I had great expectations.

As with any film, some things were better than others. First, I noticed a significant improvement in the makeup. I felt the makeup in Twilight was inconsistent and too white and cakey looking (see Bella Legosi in Dracula). Hello people, we're not shooting in B&W! In New Moon there was consistency and a more realistic "natural vampire" look, whatever that means.

Barring one small exception (the wolfpack cliff diving), I didn't question the CGI throughout. The werewolves looked great and the physical and hair movement was flawless.

Taylor Lautner really pulled off Jacob. He not only built a fantastic physique, but I felt the character was portrayed accurately from the book. He gave Jacob that warm and tender touch that comes across so well in the book. It's a damn shame he didn't have more screen time. Go Team Jacob!

Now, my complaints:
The breakneck pace of the film - This felt more like the "Die Hard" movie than a love story. The essence of the book is the agony and utter sadness that Bella faces and the rebuilding of her life through her friendship with Jacob. I felt that the movie glossed over these issues in order to make a fast paced film so the audience wouldn't be bored... which leads me to...

The script - How on earth could Melissa Rosenberg do such a fine job on Twilight and then completely butcher New Moon. Dear god, let's hold on for a bumpy ride, she's done Eclipse too. She glosses over Bella and Jacob's relationship, leaving no character development for Jacob, fumbles around the werewolves leaving their story only half told, rushes the re-introduction of Alice, cuts out much of the key conversations, and adds a unrealistic dialogue to Alice in place of normal narration.

Robert Pattinson's performance - Robert's stoic performance in Twilight set the bar for a pained and tortured vampire in love. However in New Moon I felt that Edward was confused, like he was unsure all the time, the performance lay flat and emotionless leaving me waiting to see some of the passion that is so affectionately revealed in the book. It bored me and didn't give me any motivation behind the character. And he's hot! Normally I'd want him around. Sorry Team Edward, not impressed.

I blame all of the negative feedback above on the Director, Chris Weitz. If I didn't like some of his previous films my comments would be worse, but having said that... this is NOT one of his better films. IMO he should have stuck to the American Pie franchise and left this story to the professionals.

My Verdict:
My test of a good movie is if I would buy it or not on DVD. I have few DVDs and I only add 1 or 2 a year to my collection. I WILL buy this on DVD, but only to have the full collection of the stories. I'm looking forward to Eclipse, and with luck Breaking Dawn, but I have serious reservations about their scripts.
Good, but not great.... Didn't live up to it's potential. 3 of 5 stars.

ok, I don't watch porn, not even soft porn... I don't read romance novels and avoid lusting after movie stars because 1. I have a husband which I really dearly love and 2. ha, it's not reality.  So, I did something stupid.  No, my husband will not be mad.  I watched Twillight.  After hearing so much about this buzz and the lead actors dating (not that I care) I still didn't care.  Then I was browsing the local movie theater's website to see what's playing.   The "New Moon" trailer started playing... I watched it... and thought "that looks good".  I had resisted it all this time, but suddenly I was intrigued.  So, I rented the first movie, as I do before the sequel comes out in the theatre.  

um, so, uh, this is embarrassing.  It's not unheard of for me to watch a movie two or three times.  But it IS unusual (this is the first time) for me to watch a movie four times in less than a week, one night I watched it twice back to back.  Now it's on my mind... it's infected me!  I want to know more about the actors, to read the book, to see everything ever involved with this story.  Am I sick!?  I actually had flutterings inside me during the suspenseful first kiss scene.  OMG, I feel like a teenager, again.  You know, the first time you realize you really like someone and every time you see them you get all giddy and stuff?

Ok, so WHY do I like this?  It's mysterious like Interview with a Vampire, but sweet and tragic like Romeo and Juliet.  I get it.  I love the attraction BUT there are a few things that bug me... and I'm told they will unravel in the future of the story.
Possible spoilers following:
Bella, the female lead, is a typical dramatic teenager.  She has glimpses of maturity, then says something totally teenager-ish and irrational, and slightly insane considering she's just met this guy one month before, but if we're talking about Juliet, she fits right in.  If you know that the story is based off of Romeo and Juliet you know this can't end well ... and that one of them is already dead, and the other one wants to be dead but isn't.
As for Edward, Romeo in our story, he's about 90-100 years old.  He's got this physical addiction to Bella (literally her scent).  So, he's not exactly into her because she's smart.  If she goes through with her death wish, won't her scent die too? and therefore will Edward still love her?  Clearly she hasn't thought this though.  He's saying "you don't want this" but not telling her why.  She's being a child and insisting that she does, but obviously doesn't know what she's getting into.

I can see the train wreck coming and I'm absolutely mesmerized.  I'm hooked... and damn it, I can't wait to read/see more.

This week we had two trick or treaters (our neighbors cute little girls), one neighborhood BBQ organized by me, a nasty head cold, and ... because no Halloween should end without it, a trip to the Urgent Care doctors (or After Hours).  I started to lose my hearing in my right ear and for the second time since April, I have an ear infection.  Medication granted and problem under control... but geez! (cough cough)

I now have braces.  Oh my.  I wanted straight teeth, not braces!  Apparently, I need them in order to stop my teeth from cracking and splitting.  They are out of alignment and causing bigger problems.  So, now we go with braces for ~12 months.   I haven't eaten yet, and I'm getting dehydrated.... and a little nervous as the pain hasn't set in yet (it's only been 3 hours).

ok, now I've eaten and what a freakin' nightmare!  And now they really really hurt!  ouch ouch ouch.  I've taken the maximum aspirin allowed for a day.  Hot drinks and sunshine are the only things that ease my pain!
Frickin frackin braces!

Due to insulation being installed this morning (YAY!) I am unable to get into the kitchen to make myself breakfast.  Therefore, I am having an award winning breakfast of "raspberry bullets" which are raspberry flavored licorice covered in chocolate.  A healthy breakfast that no mother could refuse when kitchen access is unavailable.  ;)
But anyway.. insulation.  My fingers are freezing.  I'm wearing a wool sweater and a down vest (which Greg and I just purchased yesterday at 50% off original price), wool hat, scarf and fingerless gloves (so I can type), and SKI PANTS.  This is my usual house attire this winter.  Although I doubt  my attire will change much (Greg insists that I should be wearing a bikini in the house by the end of the day, ha) I hope my fingers will be warmer.  At least when we turn on the heater now it won't just funnel the heat through the roof and the floors.  oh, the luxuries of modern homes.

Wow... did you know?: China accounts for 78% of the world's garlic production while the US ranks fifth with 1.4%, the majority of that coming from a single county (Santa Clara) in California.  So, technically-speaking, garlic shoppers at large US grocery stores do have a choice, Chinese or Californian, but it's not nearly as big or diverse as they think.

I planted some garlic at the old place last year... I wonder how it's doing.  As I'm getting the new garden ready for production I'm wondering what I'll be planting.  It's got me thinking that garlic should be first on that list.  78%!!!!  Some people think that growing your own food is a silly?, old fashioned?, I don't know, but for me it comes down to this small contribution to growing what I eat makes me less dependent on commercially produced food.... and therefore reducing the chemicals that go into the ground and my food.

Greg and I went to see Scottish comedian "Danny Bhoy" the other night.  I saw a short clip of his act on TV and thought... "is he playing in Chch? 'cause damn, he's funny".  He was talking about how hotel beds make their beds so tight that you need to "fax" yourself into them.  The visuals had me spewing soda out of my nose.  Then he goes on to talk about a lizard on the wall while he's "faxed" into bed.  Turns out to be a gecko (for those in TX no explanation is needed I'm sure).  He was watching this gecko on the wall and then turned out the light.  He woke up from a sleep frightened... where had this gecko gone?  Turned ON the light... gecko was no where to be found!  Then he looked down (while strapped into this tight bed) and the gecko is on his chest.  (I'm pissing myself laughing now!)  He tries to blow the gecko off... yes blow.  Oh, hysterical.

The hotel room skit also pointed out those really crappy "hair dryers" that are attached to the wall in hotel bathrooms (perhaps not so much in America).  He compared them to an elderly woman gently blowing on your hair, leaving your hair moist and warm, but not dry. 

So, the live performance we saw was a completely different act!  Equally funny but I somehow felt left out because I really wanted to watch the rest of the "hotel room skit".  Now I'm on the hunt for this hotel skit because it was on TV1? the other day... and I'll be on youtube looking for it shortly.  I highly recommend seeing this comedian... hilarious.

EDIT: Here's the skit I am talking about: http://lnk.nu/youtube.com/wdr

 Recently Greg's mom told me a cute story about Greg as a boy.  One day he said to her "mom!  I'm stronger than myself!"  After a giggle on her side (I'm sure) she inquired.  He said "Yesterday I tightened this lid as tight as I could and today I could open it!"
Well, today I am NOT smarter than myself.  When we left to go on vacation I cleverly hid my house keys so no burglars could find them.  Somewhere that wouldn't be obvious, but I would find, knowingly, right away.  Somewhere that would be sensible for me.  And I distinctly remember telling Greg "I've put my keys here... So you need to help me remember that when we get back."  In the last 24 hours I've torn the house apart and not found one little clue as to where they could be.  I leave in less than 24 hours for a work trip and I guess I'll be using the spare set, which I DID know where they were.  So, apparently, I am NOT smarter than myself.  Damn.

I had forgotten how incredibly busy London gets, even in the "shoulder" season.  I grumbled my way around London dodging prams and slow tourists that line up side by side then stop to take photos.  It is much easier to dodge them when travelling solo, however we didn't do much of this. 

Now we are in Japan... I won't bore you with details of a painfully slow and sleepless flight.  I will just say that about one minute from reaching our hotel room door I was so weary from travelling I nearly burst into tears.  Needless to say I had a nice sob and a good shower.  Food solved the problem and we are both happily relaxing in our "deluxe" room with computer and King sized bed, an upgrade because they ran out of the room we reserved.

Japan is facinating.  I am enjoying it with fresh eyes and a small sense of the culture.  I am SO incredibly grateful to all of those patient and kind Japanese friends who have over the years taught me some phrases.  I even impressed myself by what I remembered from learning over 4 years ago.... i.e. "I am hungry."  With the incredibly limited Japanese that I know Greg and I were able to navigate the train, tube and menus with non-English speaking people.  We even asked for directions.  People are very friendly here and I am looking forward to a full day of shopping tomorrow, a luxury I have not taken on the trip other than yarn and a few small souvenirs.  I am not sure where I will put these things I plan on buying as my bag is completely full and far too heavy (18kg).  It's a hernia waiting to happen! 

What is hard to believe is that although we return this week (Tuesday morning I think) I will be on the road again on Thursday for a convention (work.)  I am looking forward to those two days at home even though there will be lots of work involved.

The trip has been fantastic so far.  We hit Canada in freezing temps, saw loads of family and friends and had a spectacular time!  Texas was equally enjoyable.  We visited friends and some family, caught up on some SXSW stuff, I even ran into SXSW acquaintances from 2004!  Alas, it seems that we left the last of the warm weather in Texas.  Ireland was beautiful and green, most days were really lovely.  We had good, but chilly weather most of our time there.  Unfortunately, I developed a cold while I was there and didn´t recooperate until London.  I still have a bit of a cough even now. 

We arrived in London only to leave the next morning for Iceland.  The weather was as expected, maybe better... It´s cold here.  yeah, really cold.  But surprisingly, we are prepared.  We have lots of warm clothing and I haven´t died of frostbitten anything.  =)  We got a bit delayed when we arrived because I couldn´t decide whether or not to go to a doctor.  Due to the flight from London (and Cork the day before) my ears were having issues.  They clogged like they sometimes do because of air pressure, but they weren´t un-popping.  I was a bit stressed out about this, but was trying not to worry.  In the end a very nice lady at the pharmacists agreed I should see a doctor and gave me the name of the after hours clinic (after I´d already tried at normal clinics twice).  The doctor took one look at me, prescribed some penicillin and sent me on my way.  Very efficient people those Icelanders.  The doctor also asked if I needed any pain meds.  At the time I wasn´t in pain and I said no.  Just moments later I wish I´d said yes.  Then I went in search of my emergency panadol (aspirin) which I carry with me.  I lost it!  The pain subsided in 48 hours and I´m feeling much better now.

So, why do people keep asking me "Why are you going to Iceland?  You know they are broke?"  Don´t ask me this... I already know.  and the answer is because I can... and it´s cheap right NOW!  But not as cheap as to make it cheap... just cheaper.  I´m absolutely stunned as to how incongruent the quality to cost ratio is and how it fluctuates so dramatically between establishments for seemingly no reason.  The place we are staying at tonight is a boring "charmless" hotel with no amenities and expensive as (while still being in the middle of nowhere) vs. 2 nights ago a completely gorgeous room and hotel (the best we´ve stayed in so far), amazing food, and also in the middle of nowhere but it costed LESS!

Regardless of these matters Iceland is beautiful and stunning in winter/spring.  We got lots and lots of snow, difficult driving conditions (good challenges) and NO tourists!  in fact, we are the only people staying at this "charmless" hotel tonight (with ~150 rooms).  The glaciers are gorgeous and the scenery is breathtaking... we are seeing an Iceland that few tourists see... the winter version.  I can´t imagine it in Summer.

Icelandic horses are everywhere!  I thought "oh, these poor animals... how can they leave them outside in the snow?"  Apparently they are quite happy in the snow and don´t do well in warmer climates.  They are robust and beautiful creatures, even though they look like short windswept teenagers with bedhead and long faces.  I´ll be sad to leave here, but I´m so excited about our next adventures!  and I´m dying to see my home again and a nice firm bed that my back doesn´t complain about.  Tomorrow I´m heading for my last hot spring for a while and I´ll be thinking of you while I wade in 38C water while the -1C air freezes my hair.  Then I´ll head inside and have a Bailey´s and hot choc.  =)

http://www.meltingpot.com/
Sunday March 15th, 6pm  Research Blvd location.  Who's in?

I would also like to hit the following places in no particular order and would love interested parties to join me.
Chuy's
Rudy's
Magnolia Cafe

Craft stores:
Craft-O-Rama
3100 S. Congress Ave., #3B

Hill Country Weavers
1701 S Congress Ave

Knitting Nest LLC
160 Slaughter Ln W # 200

Gauge Knits
5406 Parkcrest Dr

Bluebonnet Yarn Shoppe
Cedar Park

So, it's summer (35C today... whew!) and I've been learning about gardens.  I'm a novice, but I feel that I'm learning pretty quickly.  I took a stroll home from town yesterday (2.5km or 1mile) and wandered through the Community Garden down the street.  It's a garden that is open to the community to either take part in or donate to and take away fruit, veggies and plants as they are available.  (Do we have this in the States?)  As I wandered, it occurred to me that in the last three years I've learned what just about every single plant they have in the garden is.  Apple trees, plums, lemons, silverbeet, spinach, carrot, broccoli, tomatoes, raspberries, strawberries, various lettuces, figs, herbs.  you name it there was heaps! 

Our garden is 100% ornamental, which doesn't suit either of us.  i.e.: we have 10+ rosebushes.  I'm in the process of re-landscaping our garden.  I've decided to get a professional in to help with the design since I'm aiming for an organic garden and he can help with companion planting.  Some people said it's money wasted since I could do this myself, but the way we look at it is: it's fast-tracking our garden to get it where we want it.  I can and will learn all this stuff, but I'm getting a leg up.  We're even considering chooks! (chickens)

I'm excited.  Since we moved I kept just a few of the plants I started at my old garden: tomatoes, habaneros, jalapenos, bell pepper, some herbs and a sad strawberry plant (which was THRIVING before moved.)  I've bought an old window to make a greenhouse from.  I've started a cold compost and have the worm bins going full steam!  It's coming along. 

My first jalapeno is just a week away.  I can taste the success already!

So, I'm relying on you, my adoring public, to give me some advice.  Of these places, which is the best (IYO) place to have a 2 night layover?
Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, Tokyo, Osaka, or Bangkok
Keep in mind that I'm interested in food and culture, but most important is fabric and yarn stores.  I'd really love to hear your experience on any of these places.

Greg reminded me that I neglected to blog about a remarkable event last week when I blogged.  When Greg called last week saying he was going to the emergency room.  I took a big breath, called a friend, had a mini-cry, packed a lunch and knitting (it was only 11am and yes, I'm clear headed when stressed), and headed for the bus stop (car was in the shop and I was in no condition to cycle).  While trying to cross a busy street I attempted to flag down the bus driver to stop and wait for me.  He didn't see me and just flew by.

A few seconds later, now safe on the correct side of the street, a car pulled over and honked.  She had her window rolled down and said loudly "I saw you missed your bus.  Hop in, I'm headed into town and I'll give you a lift."  I was blown away.  Who was this kind stranger who came to me in my time of distress?  I said "thank you" and hopped in.  She was a mid-fifties woman headed to see a movie with a friend.  I told her my situation and she said "oh, no.  I hope he's ok.  Listen, I'm just going to the Arts Centre.  I'll drop you off there".  The Arts Centre is a stone's throw from the hospital.  With the bus I would have taken two different buses.  She got me there faster than it would have.

I had nearly forgotten what community was all about.  Thank you kind stranger for redeeming that sense of community for me.

Fresh on my mind is the conclusion of the series of triathlons I participated in.  I started with the Tri-run for the first two events, but being the slacker I am, dropped back to the Tri-walk for the final event.  The decision served me well.
Results here
Long story short: I got first place in my age/category! = bottle of bubbly
I'd like to say a huge thank you to my biggest supporter, my best friend, my husband.  Greg was there for every early morning, helped me train and even tolerated my "I (heart) Amy" sign that I persuaded him to make last year.  He even processes my images when I'm too tired/lazy to do it myself.  What an awesome husband.  You can see his photography of the event here.

In other news this week, Greg had a bit of a scare this week.  He had some unexplained chest pains and we were concerned that it was cardiac related.  The good news is: although it was scary we now categorically know that his heart is in excellent condition.

Now for the BIG BIG news!  ready?  We put an offer on the house.  It was accepted.  We go unconditional in a few days and move in on the 20th.  Oh holy cow!  In addition to this we're breaking our lease with our current landlord who was incredibly understanding and sweet.  She got it in the paper, etc. and in less than 24 hours it was rented!  WHOA!  that rocks!

My mom would say all my stars are lined up.  I'm not normally superstitious but this is too good to be true!  I'm "touching wood" left and right today though.  Let's hope this fantastic lucky streak lasts!

As my fashion school stint draws to a close I will soon be industrial sewing machine-less.  Therefore, on Wednesday this week my ears perked up when I heard my tutor say "liquidation auction for clothing manufacture on Thursday".  I quickly got the address, my checkbook and a bidder number.  On Friday my newest acquisitions got delivered:

1 Juki 555-2 industrial plain sewer ($375 + g.s.t.)

1 colonial style china cabinet ($20 + g.s.t.)




I got both for $500 with delivery.  I'm happy with them and I am looking forward to putting them to good use.  I'll need to do some refurbishing on the china cabinet, but it's in relatively good shape.  It will quite nicely store my sewing materials. 

The Juki is a workhorse of a plain sewer; this one is easily 20 years old.  It will continue to last for many years and was a great buy!  I'm thinking of resurfacing the top of it to be more decorative.  We'll see.

Our OTHER newest acquisition is our temporary resident, Punkin Bunny.  While his mom is on holiday in Brisbane, Greg and I are entertaining this cute little ball of fur.  He tolerates us.  We adore him, except for the whole eating-your-own-dags thing.  Oh, and the nipping and general annoyance (his annoyance) as we, his subjects, rudely request his restraint on demolition.  If you would like to read a little (or a lot) on rabbit psychology here's a great link.  http://language.rabbitspeak.com
If you aren't confused with the ear jargon, let me know... perhaps you can teach me something.  Punky is a Mini Lop (or Holland Lop if you speak American bunny talk).

Yesterday was a beautifully sunny day and the three of us got into the garden for some quality hopping (gardening in my case) time.  Apparently Punky thought it was too cold outside and hopped back indoors.  He's been enjoying "Top Gear", "Fear Factor: Young vs. Old" and "Mission Impossible 1".  He seems to be glued to the TV.



Last week (7 days ago) I finished my second triathlon of the season (of three) and placed 43nd with three others.  I also placed 43rd in my first race.  You can find my results here.  http://www.womenstri.co.nz/results.html
The next (and probably final) Tri is on December 2nd.  Running is not my forté.

An update from when I wrote this earlier this week:
Tonight we had to send the bunny back.  I was having trouble breathing for a few days and determined it's an allergic reaction to either the hay or the bunny.  =(  He's already missed.

More photos on Flickr

First off, I saw this in a blog and fell-IN-LOVE with it.  I was considering buying it from this Cow-town (Chicago) based store but Greg quickly brought me back to reality reminding me that sending rocks overseas may not be economical.  Instead I dragged him to the nearest rock shop post-haste and we got something different, but equally beautiful.

Amy Butler is a textile designer (fabric designer to you and me).  I love her work and stumbled upon her website the other day.  My jaw dropped when I saw that 1. she's now also doing dishes and 2. they are stunning.
I'm totally jealous of those that live near a Mikasa outlet.  hmph.
Check it: http://www.amybutlerdesign.com

My New Zealand friends obviously know me pretty well when they send me this link:
An Etsy shop owner makes acrylic necklaces of states.
As I said to my friend, Lucy:
"the only problem with it is that it needs to be much bigger. it's only 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" that's only 4 x 4cm.  Texas is bigger than France!"
Lucy - "are you suggesting it should be lifesize?"
Amy - "no, but if you have been to texas you'd understand.  belt buckles have a minimum size...somewhere in the vicinity of hand size (inc fingers).  if you're a rodeo champ they are so big it's difficult to walk.  that's why cowboys walk funny"

All you Texans are surely nodding.
This brought me to an interesting article on Texas and Texas Heritage.
This is a PBS article on our beloved accent

Which brings me to a Canadian that I spoke with the other day.  I came upon her while she was explaining to the other kiwis that she didn't say "oot and aboot" (out and about).  I started to correct her, but realized she just simply didn't hear it.  Just like I don't always hear myself saying "yawnt" or even "recken" anymore.  It's just natural.

Christmas:
It's coming.  After seeing these amazing things online, I've found yet another thing I'd like for xmas.  If any of the other things I've listed haven't whet your appetite, maybe stationary will.  This paper, um, artist is SO cool!

Other tabs I've got open range from "10 steps to a Decluttered Stash" to "How to Become an Early Riser".  When a friend of mine mentioned that she wakes up at 5:30am every day, my first thought was WHY? and then How?  She provided the link.  I'm sure it's so she could get more crafting time in.

Lastly, but not least I've been reading a romance novel.  I know, I know, but it's really good.  It's a true story about a city girl who falls for a cowboy.  Someone sent me this link AGES ago and I am just now getting to it.  Her photography is pretty damn good too. 

If you've made it this far, perhaps you wouldn't mind going a little further.  I am doing my first triathlon of the season this Sunday.  A shout out would be nice.  Apparently, my supporter numbers are dwindling due to weekend busyness.

This science, engineering, technology, craft related event is happening Oct 18 & 19 for all of my Austin friends.  It looks like a really awesome fun event.  The organization is looking for volunteers to help out.  Whether you want to volunteer or not, it's worth checking out.

And if you go... "Make" something for me.

Maker Faire Austin
Call for Volunteers

I came across my notes from Greg's and my trip to Peru today. There is a reason I haven't written about it before now. This trip was in July 2005. For me, the pain of this trip was still too near, until now. I'm not sure that there is anything humorous about them but I'll give you a snippet of the notes. Keep in mind I am laughing now.

The trip started on a peculiar note because there was "civil unrest" where we were going, therefore we had to change our destination for the first four days of the trip. During our detour we found more "civil unrest" and narrowly made it out of town before streets were blocked. We went to areas of Peru that had never seen white people before, seriously. I spoke Spanish to the vendors in the area and they didn't respond... as if we were ghosts. We were the attraction that day.

I made note that our Inca trail tour guide frequently used the phrases "Ladies and Gentlemen", "what happens more" - instead of saying "also", and "for to" which Greg tells me is that our guide was combining the infinitive with the present continuous tense. Example: while a native English speaker would say "A bucket is used to carry water" our guide would have said "A bucket is used for to carry water". He was confusing "for carrying" with "to carry" = "for to carry". His pronunciation of "trail" was "trial". I found this very amusing, primarily because the trail was such a trial for me.

We were doing the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu where the altitude started at around 9,000 ft.  We had spent a few days acclimatizing and chewing/drinking coca leaves and tea to help with the effects of altitude sickness. Greg and I had even brought medicine (that needed to be taken one day before) to reduce any symptoms. Greg decided not to take the medicine, therefore I thought I'd be fine as well. I should know have known better. I get car sick, train sick, bus sick... why wouldn't I get altitude sickness too?

So, we were in a group of about 16 people, 14 of which decided to take the trail to Machu Piccu, two took the train. I wish I had taken the train. But to this day when I am having trouble doing something physical Greg reminds me that "you walked the Inca Trail, you can do this". I have to remind him that I had to be carried and there was talk of a donkey, but that's to come.

The first day was exciting. We had stayed the night outside of Cusco in Ollantaytambo (say that three times fast), woke up early, drank even more coca tea and set off on the bus to the trail head. I could feel the butterflies in my stomach. This was a big trail, the likes of which I had never done. I wasn't sure I was ready for it but was assured that many people had crossed it, including seniors well into retirement. There were porters to carry all of the heavy things. We had two guides to keep a watchful eye on us and help if there were any problems. The group checked into the trail head at 10:20 am, by 10:50 we were finally tramping.

I remember asking our guide if it's "like this" all the way (meaning steep). His response was "it's flat". Each time we asked we got the same response. Greg and I finally realized he meant that this is their flat... this is Peruvian flat, not Texas flat.

However, a little before we began those butterflies started to worry me. I had been fine the first seven days of our Peruvian trip, suddenly I was feeling strange. I passed it off as just an upset stomach and continued hiking. A few hours into our tramp I was feeling rotten, absolutely green! The asst. to our guide put salt in my water and told me to drink up. I had no idea what this would do, but I thought he must know his stuff and I trusted him. An hour later I started vomiting. The salt he poured in my water was meant to make me vomit (presumably to get the bad stuff out of my stomach), but he didn't tell me this.

Meanwhile the rest of our party was well ahead of Greg and me because I was feeling so crook. When we finally made it to our camp we were given food and our tent was set up. Those porters rock! My memory thankfully isn't that great regarding the food... but these few notes do bring up a few shivers: We were told that we had the "best cook on the Inca Trail", however this is among these other notes "gruel" and "salt soup". Honestly, this was not the best food on the trip.

At 6:45 am on the second day we aimed climbed to 13,851 ft "Dead Woman's Pass". I felt like that woman. Almost everyone in the party had some symptoms of altitude sickness, but nothing compared to the multiple whammies that had been delivered to me. I won't go into details. Towards the middle of the second day I was reduced to practically crawling. I simply couldn't walk more than ten or 15 steps without having a rest. I wanted to lie down and sleep. A member of our party (built like a football player) actually carried me for about 20 yards or so. The air was thin now. It was hard for one person to do this, much less carry another. He carried me a total of two times. The guides talked of the possibility of finding a donkey to take me back down the way we had just come from.

I don't know if I was just so stubborn that I didn't want to go back or the feeling that I was nearly halfway there and it couldn't get worse, but we agreed that I could make it. Seriously, I could SEE the trail to the top, we weren't far. When we finally did make it to the top we were told that we wouldn't have "lunch" until we made it to the tents. By this time it was 3:30 pm. By now I couldn't tell if I had hunger or pain in my stomach. We had another two hours minimum of hiking to go. The sun was going down by the time we got in (around 5:30 pm). More salt soup, followed up with gruel. Greg's head hit his pillow and he was OUT!

The third day my sickness was lifting (we were at a lower altitude). Today's challenge was the "cliff of stairs". The entire day was downward stairs at different heights, lengths, etc. My knees, calves, thighs and generally legs were KILLING me at the end of the day.

Some funny moments came from this day. This was the first time in three days that we were able to take a shower. Greg didn't bother, but I stood in line for the privilege. I needed it. Once inside there was a coin timer, a small cubicle and a shower head with electrical wires sticking out of it. The electrical wires were incredibly dodgy looking and had I not seen another woman just come walking out of the same shower two minutes before, I am not sure I would have trusted it. The shower pressure AND temperature varied with the whims of the cuy (guinea pigs) that must have been operating the pump.

After some startling showering I re-joined some of the party near the bar where they were playing cards. Over beers some of the single men in our party started to chat-up girls from another group. One girl had commented that this was her first or second time doing the Inca Trail and the guy said "Do you come to Peru often?". This is what pick-up lines sound like at altitude. Riotous laughter ensued.

The fourth day of the Inca trail was good. I was feeling much better and eager to get this over with. Each morning we had gotten up an hour earlier; we were now up at 4:45 walking in the darkness. It was beautiful.  Equally beautiful was the relief of my feet on the train ride back to Cusco. I have never been so ready to leave a place.

Upon arrival in Cusco our luggage was brought in and piled up in the lobby of our hotel. Greg and I grabbed our key and a bag each. When Greg looked for his bag it was GONE. We thought someone in our party may have taken it on accident, since it was sitting on top of the pile a moment before. We were tired, hungry and wanted a fresh start. We had to wait and wait...We spent two hours asking everyone. Finally we went to get some food. The last place that was open was near the hotel. I chose fettuccine al fredo and an old fashioned lemonade. The lemonade was hot, yes hot, not warm or luke warm... hot in a glass. And the straw in it tasted like beef. I swear. The fettuccine was well, watery, and not cream-like at all. It was also not our best meal. We ordered water and our boy waiter had to run down the street to buy water for us.

The next day we pieced together what had happened. Greg's bag was stolen, a thief had come into the hotel in the chaos of our arrival, grabbed a bag, looking like a porter and exited quickly. No one suspected anything. We spent our only free day in Cusco at the police station filing a report. I AM shaking my head and laughing as I write this. It was the single WORST trip I have ever taken, but I wouldn't have changed it. It didn't kill me.

Things I miss from Peru:
pisco sours
ceviche
Peruvian style BBQ chicken
private minibus owners which provided public bus service
haggling to buy goods/pay cab drivers
alpacas and all camelids
Inca engineering
our new couchsurf friend Lourdes
Peruvian hospitality
Peruvian security
Color

Things I don't miss from Peru:
crowds of the city
poverty
thieves
roasted cuy (yes, guinea pig)
salt soup
altitude sickness
quinoa (the Inca trail put me right off this)